Matthias Zurbriggen

Matthias Zurbriggen
Born	Matthias Zurbriggen (1856-05-15)May 15, 1856 Saas-Fee, Switzerland
Died	June 21, 1917(1917-06-21) (aged 61) Geneva, Switzerland
Nationality	Swiss
Occupation	Mountaineer
Known for	First ascent of Aconcagua and Tupungato

Memorial to Matthias Zurbriggen, Monte Moro Pass Switzerland

Matthias Zurbriggen (15 May 1856 in Saas-Fee – 21 June 1917 in Geneva) was a Swiss mountaineer. He climbed throughout the Alps, the Andes, the Himalayas and New Zealand.

Ascents

He made many first ascents, the best known of which is Aconcagua in Argentina, the highest peak outside of Asia, which he climbed alone on 14 January 1897, during an expedition led by Edward FitzGerald. During the same expedition Zurbriggen also made the first ascent of Tupungato with Englishman Stuart Vines. However, it is important to note that indigenous peoples lived in the Andes long before European explorers arrived. The Inca and other Andean civilizations were capable of high-altitude travel and mountaineering. Archaeological evidence, such as mummified remains and ceremonial artifacts found near Aconcagua's summit area, suggests that these groups likely ascended to significant heights on the mountain for spiritual or ceremonial purposes. It is unclear, however, if they ever reached the actual summit.

The Zurbriggen Ridge on Aoraki / Mount Cook in New Zealand is named after him. On 14 March 1895, Zurbriggen made the first ascent of the ridge, the second ascent of the mountain and its first solo ascent. He missed the honour of claiming the first ascent of Mount Cook, which was achieved a few months earlier, on Christmas Day 1894 by a party of New Zealanders who were determined to prevent the first ascent being credited to a foreigner.

Personal life

Later in life, his fortune declined. He lived his last decade as a vagrant in his home country, and was found hanged in Geneva in 1917, an apparent suicide.